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50 Shades of Tessallae

on December 4 | in Wine & Spirits | by | with No Comments

blindfolded woman

Anyone in a long-term relationship knows that after time, the relationship becomes predictable. Nothing is particularly wrong or bad; you just know what’s going to happen next. There is comfort in a predictable routine, yet every now and then you’d like a glimmer of the unexpected. The spark of surprise! A thrill of…something.  I speak of all relationships. The one you have with your partner, your best friend, your siblings, your boss, or even your wine shop. Yes, your wine shop. I know where everything is. I know what to expect. I know the most-likely-to-buy price point is eye level. The mass-market embarrassments are on the back wall. The “luscious splurge worthy,” a shelf up from eye level. The risky never-heard-ofs on the bottom.

 

I find myself picking up the tried and true. The ones you taste before you buy. The ones you drink over and over again. You know what you’re getting at a comfortable everyday price. However, I have a confession to make. I am utterly bored. I struggle to remain faithful to my go-tos. I find myself dominated by another.

It started innocently enough with an intriguing Cuvee Centenaire Blanc. The seductively marked-down tail end of a vintage, one of those “bottom shelf” bottles. However, one sip of the rich yet mineral grenache blanc gris and rousillion and I was hooked. I tried to resist, but I went back for more until it was gone. The world went gray, but then Cuvee Nicholas beckoned from the endcap.

I told myself only once, yet again there was no resisting. Then it was gone. I thought I would not find another diversion until Tessellae Carignan. I did not think life could get better.

bottle of tessellae wine

Then, the Internet played matchmaker via email to Bastide Miraflors and I was totally “whipped.” Turns out there are Internet hookups that work out, after all. As I stand bound at the basement door over the last few precious bottles I am hoarding, I sip the last of light tart refreshing Côte d’Est in fond farewell to summer. As I begin to fear a bleak winter, behold the fraternal twin to Tessallae Carignan-Tessallae GSM, the perfect “ménage à trois” too impossible to resist. They saved the best for last!

bottle of bastide miraflores wine

Jean-Marc Lafage is the man behind my addictive love affair who just so happens to be one of the hottest winemakers in Europe, lending his caress to top estates in France and Spain. But it appears home truly is where the heart is, as these intense silky powerful wines are produced at his estate in the hills of the Roussillon with his wife Elaine, also a highly accomplished winemaker. One of the oldest viticultural regions of France, vines in the Roussillon were cultivated by the Romans—perhaps even an enslaved gladiator.

But let’s hear from experts instead of the besotted.

 

Domaine Lafage Bastide Miraflors “Vieilles Vignes” Languedoc-Roussillon

93 points Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate: “There are 3,000 cases of the naked, virginal, unoaked 2011 Bastide Miraflors Vieilles Vignes made from 70 percent Syrah and 30 percent Grenache aged in concrete. The fact that wines such as this can be purchased is unbelievable. Largely an artisanal wine, it is brilliantly pure with a stunning nose of spring flowers, blackberries, cassis, and earth.”

It is almost incomprehensible that something of this quality, complexity, and richness can be purchased for $25 to $50, much less $10 to $12. I am honored to share my excitement about this amazing wine with readers.

Syrah offers the intensely dark color, black-pepper spice, and a note of game, while the Grenache gives this wine the earth and hints of garrigue among the ripe dark berry flavors. (Note: This is a full-throttle, mouth-filling, intensely flavored red blend that is delicious now [given some breathing], and will age beautifully for the next five years.)

ROBERT PARKER: “The least expensive offering is the 2011 Tessellae Old Vines Côtes du Roussillon, an intriguing blend of 40 percent Syrah, 40 percent Grenache, 15 percent Mourvedre, and 5 percent Grenache Gris, a rare white grape. It was aged 12 months in concrete tanks prior to being bottled unfiltered. It boasts an expansive, intense, complex bouquet of garrigue, strawberries, and black cherries intermixed with a hint of spring flowers, a velvety texture and a voluptuous mouth feel.”

In my tasting notes I wrote that it was a $12 Cote Rotie of the South, although $12 Cote Roties went out of existence about fifty years ago. This beautiful, soft, round, seductive red should drink well for four to five years.

5 easier to find wines:

  • Jaume Serra Cristalino Cava Brut—A perfect celebratory party pop (as in sound).  Made in the traditional method of second fermentation in the bottle. A fizzy palate pleasing touch of green apple, mineral, and crisp dry finish.
  • Novellum Chardonnay—Teased with a hint of oak and aged on Viognier lees makes this wine so drinkable and different. Creamy fruit and fig; everything nice.  This one goes fast.
  • Evodia Garnacha—Deep ruby red, intense fruit, touch of spice.  What’s not to like?
  • Rio Madre Rioja—Graciano? I never heard of it either, but lush dark fruit, creamy, and plenty of oak. 
  • Easton Amador County Zinfandel—My turkey pick. Everything a Zinfandel should be. Berries, plums, cracked pepper, and velvety.

It should be noted I never stray far from my master—Novellum and Evodia are Lafage collaborations.

 

Photo Credit: <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/photos/47206040@N03/6675478483/”>Radoslaw Pujan</a> via <a href=”http://compfight.com”>Compfight</a> <a href=”http://www.flickr.com/help/general/#147″>cc</a>

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